Filzmoos: My First Ski Experience in Austria

We always remember the beautiful beginnings… and I can’t help but fondly recall my first skiing experience in Austria, 2004. Looking back now, after many years and varied experiences, I believe I started my skiing holidays in Austria with the perfect “beginning”—a small and charming resort in the Salzburg area called Filzmoos.

Hotel Happy Filzmoos, Filzmoos, Austria

I call it “the beginning” because, after Filzmoos, I became accustomed to quality services and a civilized infrastructure… 😊. From there, I began to seek out places with even more impressive landscapes, ski slopes, altitude, fun, and glamour.

At Filzmoos (1060m), you won’t see as many of the extravagant landscapes or eccentricities that other winter resorts boast. However, this doesn’t take away from the special charm of the place; the idyllic image of an Austrian mountain village with a warm atmosphere more than compensates. The resort is ideal for families with children, as all the main attractions are within walking distance, and there is very limited traffic. It’s generally a peaceful location, though there are a few spots where skiers can stop for an après-ski beer or schnapps in their boots, accompanied by German hit songs. The shopping options might be a bit limited, but they seemed well-suited to the number and needs of tourists in the resort. Similarly, the sports equipment shops have everything you need, though perhaps less on the “fashion” side. Excellent services, friendly people, everything very well organized. I even have to mention the “visit” I made to the resort’s medical clinic due to a small incident. Queue ticket, prompt service, professionalism… and in three days, I was back on the slopes…. 😊

The ski area is generally very suitable for beginners and cross-country enthusiasts. The maximum altitude you can reach on skis is 1645m. For advanced skiers, the challenge is an interesting slope with a partially black run called Papageno. You can ski right up to the entrance of many hotels, and the main street, along with most of the resort’s points of interest, is located at the base of the slopes. I’ll repeat myself in saying that Filzmoos is excellent for those looking to become skiers! There are plenty of beginner-friendly slopes, and on top of that, an outstanding ski school. Most of the slopes are visible from the main street. Unfortunately, I had the opportunity (because I couldn’t ski) to spend a few days watching ski school lessons for beginners in Filzmoos through the steam of glühwein glasses, sitting in an après-ski bar. I can say that everything runs very professionally.

For the very young children, the instructor practically plays with them, getting them used to the sensation of sliding. There are prizes like chocolates, candies, and teddy bears for special achievements… For the older kids, the ski school takes on a more classic approach, but what I loved was that, in the end, they organized a real competition—with slalom poles, a cheering crowd, a starting point, a podium, and certificates. Plus, a friendly entertainer on the megaphone made jokes and gave encouragement throughout the competition.

At the base of the main slope is the “Happy Filzmoos” hotel, with an excellent après-ski bar (“Happy Alm”) and restaurant. We were daily regulars here! The owner’s family personally manages all the key services—reception, bar, restaurant management, etc. The atmosphere in “Happy Alm” is comparable to that of higher-rated resorts. Fun, music, dancing in ski boots, friendly people. I also remember they had an exceptional Weiss beer! … 😊