Jerusalem: A City of Sacred Wonders and Historic Drama

I finally had the chance to spend a few days in Israel. I had been waiting for this opportunity for a long time. I had long dreamed of the mythical dimensions of the Holy Land, thousands of years of history, and the powerful imprints left by great cultures and civilizations. I had fervently wished to walk in the “footsteps” left by the tribes of Israel, biblical figures, Roman elites, Crusaders, Saracens, and Ottoman Turks.

I wanted to breathe in the air of these places, to meditate on the evidence of the extreme passion of the three Great Religions that claim essential landmarks in this corner of the world—a small fertile strip of coastline and vast desert, which only adds to the puzzlement.

Jerusalem, Israel

Why such passion, energy, drama, and explosions of hatred throughout the millennia, all sparked by this piece of land and its city, Jerusalem, desired to the point of fanaticism by everyone? What mechanisms and deep-seated triggers have fueled a volcanic struggle over thousands of years for control of the same Jerusalem? So much bloodshed, intransigence, and ignorance… A matter unresolved even in the advanced 21st century, an age of global connectivity and solutions to humanity's problems. Jerusalem continues to spark endless questions, animosities, contradictions, and paradoxes.

I am a great admirer of the extraordinary Arab culture during its golden age, whether in Moorish Andalusia from 711 to 1492 or in the various caliphates of Asia Minor during the Middle Ages. I have often enjoyed observing the essential contributions made by Muslim elites during these centuries, which often also had Jewish or partially Christian roots. I resonate deeply with all the histories and legends describing moments of peaceful coexistence, tolerance, and cultural exchange among the three Great Religions. These moments include Cordoba or Granada during the Moorish caliphates, the Norman court of Roger II in Sicily, or the brief periods of peace in the Crusader states and Muslim territories of Asia Minor. I have always been fascinated by situations where great leaders, regardless of religion, showed mutual respect, even if only temporarily. For example, I can easily imagine the success of Moses ben Maimon (Maimonides), who became celebrated at Muslim rulers' courts despite his Jewish faith. Or the exchange of courtesies and physicians between Richard the Lionheart and Saladin, despite their armed conflicts. Such mutual respect led to a fragile agreement (but an agreement nonetheless) for peaceful coexistence and access for pilgrims to the Holy Places.

Perhaps this is the image I wanted to carry with me during my brief vacation in Israel. Maybe this explains the excitement that gripped me the moment I landed at Tel Aviv Airport.

Jerusalem, Israel

However, I will quickly pass over Tel Aviv, a complex and modern city I didn’t have enough time to explore. I must mention the surprising Jaffa (now practically a suburb) and its center, where old buildings are being rehabilitated. Even though many houses were probably destroyed over time, the reconstructions in the tourist area are successful and reminiscent of medieval architecture. Roman legions, Richard the Lionheart, Saladin, and later Napoleon are just a few figures tied to the tumultuous history of this place. I spent hours wandering through the narrow streets between the buildings, among small art shops, souvenir stands, terraces, and cafes. I wondered how history might have unfolded differently if the Christian armies had not captured this small port at the start of the First Crusade. Later, the port proved strategic for bringing in war machines and equipment crucial for the siege of Jerusalem under Crusader leaders Godfrey of Bouillon, Tancred of Hauteville, and Raymond IV of Toulouse.

And since I’ve mentioned Crusader knights, with destinies and names forever marked by their actions in the Holy Land, I will now move on to Jerusalem—a city that has fueled endless battles for its control over millennia. It was the main target not only of the First Crusade and European knights but also of Egyptians, Babylonians, Greeks, and Romans long before them, and later Arabs, Ottoman Turks, and others.

It is impressive that nearly all empires and civilizations in the region, from antiquity to the present, have shown a fascination, often taken to the point of fanaticism, for conquering and possessing this city. The battles and ethnic and inter-religious tensions remain unresolved even today in modern Israel. I spent two full days walking through historic Jerusalem, exhausting and exasperating guides with my questions. With the same fervor, I sought signs of the purity and faith of the early Christians, meditated on the Via Dolorosa about the meaning of the ultimate sacrifice, and reflected on the complex paths of Divinity for us mortals. I was frustrated at being unable to visit the Dome of the Rock with its Sacred Stone, important to Muslims and also to Jewish and Christian traditions. I was also disappointed at not being allowed access to the Al Aqsa Mosque despite my sincere desire to understand other religions. I reflected in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and other Christian chapels. I was deeply moved before the Wailing Wall and shared in the joy of young people during Bar/Bat Mitzvah ceremonies.

Hours passed quickly amidst synagogues, churches, and mosques. I was "lost" in the aromatic and colorful labyrinth of the Muslim Quarter bazaar, fascinated by the languages I heard and couldn’t understand, the old buildings and narrow streets, and the cleanliness in the Jewish neighborhoods. I eagerly absorbed any information about the city’s Jewish, Roman, Byzantine, Christian, or Arab past. I also eagerly studied the medieval fortifications, looking for vulnerabilities near the splendid gates in the city’s well-preserved walls.

Wailing Wall, Jerusalem, Israel

Tower of David Citadel, Jerusalem,Israel

I “relived” the drama of the First Crusade’s assault in the northeastern sector of the defensive walls—a victory that complicated the region’s history infinitely and had multiple consequences that persist to this day. I listened to stories and legends in the citadel known as the "Tower of David," now a fascinating history museum. Once again, I was left in awe, reflecting on the extreme passion for these places. King David, Solomon, Herod the Great, biblical figures, bloody revolts, Bar Kokhba, Empress Helena, Roman, Byzantine, and Sasanian armies, Umayyad and Abbasid caliphates, Crusader kings and knights, Mamluks, Ottoman Turks, British administration, and wars with Arab states—all these have found their place in the complex historical “puzzle” of this city. A dramatic and eventful history. Sublime and sacred, heroism and fanaticism define this corner of the world throughout its history.

Jerusalem, Israel

Lions' Gate, Jerusalem, Israel

Certainly, I may have been more sensitive to these aspects of Jerusalem, either consciously or unconsciously ignoring many of its current realities. I viewed everything exclusively through the lens of the emotions I feel when walking in places steeped in stories, legends, and history. Perhaps I oversimplified in my desire to find moments of peaceful coexistence among religious communities, wanting to understand where we irreparably diverged in the past and which arguments could potentially serve as a foundation for reconciliation—at least partial, and at least cultural.

My experience in Jerusalem also reminded me of a brief exchange of words between the Crusader defender of Jerusalem and Saladin in Ridley Scott’s film Kingdom of Heaven. The dialogue highlights the immeasurable value of the city to the three Great Religions: for each of them, Jerusalem means EVERYTHING!