Sorrento, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast
- Trip And Zip
- Aug 10, 2006
- 5 min read
I've always felt that Italy is inexhaustible in its offerings for tourists. I've had the chance to spend many vacations here, and each time has brought different experiences and sensations. As a big fan of history, particularly medieval and ancient (Roman Empire), I find myself captivated when these interests combine with spectacular landscapes and unique places. I become a "prisoner," dreaming about how I could possibly move there! 🙂
The southern coastline of Naples, with the Sorrentine Peninsula and the Amalfi Coast, is one of those magical places where you can experience practically anything. From the arid heights of Mount Vesuvius to the surprisingly well-preserved ruins of the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum, and from the unique terraced towns of Amalfi, Positano, and Praiano with their spectacular rocky cliffs to the luxury and glamour of Capri Island. A visit to Capri's famous and mysterious Villa Jovis, the retreat of Emperor Tiberius, offers a fascinating glimpse into the shadow that loomed over Rome’s second emperor, adding yet another layer to a vacation full of tempting adventures.
It was exactly these considerations that led us to choose a summer vacation in Massa Lubrense, a small town near Sorrento. A flight to Naples, complications at the airport thanks to Alitalia, a lost car rental reservation, and an unplanned night at a (surprisingly excellent!) hotel in Naples all faded away when we realized we had chosen an absolutely stunning area for our holiday! While the road from Naples to Sorrento passes through or near towns that may seem a bit neglected, everything transforms into poetry when you finally come face-to-face with Capri and Ischia Islands. And I’m not just talking about the seascape but also about the towns, the people, and the overall atmosphere.
Sorrento is a small town in Campania, picturesque both for its cliffs and its local charm, rich in history dating back to Roman times. The residents of Sorrento proudly produce limoncello, and the town attracts a multitude of tourists annually (I noticed a lot of British visitors). The selection of luxury hotels is enticing for many celebrities and wealthy individuals, but I must say, the terraces and restaurants are well worth the money.
Positano, Amalfi, and Praiano are the main towns along the southern coast of the Sorrentine Peninsula. Beyond their unique charm—defined by houses built in terraces on cliffs descending directly into the sea—each town offers tourists gems of history and art. Local cultural events are frequent, benefiting from the natural and historical backdrop, which enhances the sense of uniqueness and exclusivity. I also discovered that the area’s resorts have been well-known and appreciated since Roman times, when the empire’s elite built villas here, and later by the ruling classes, such as Napoleon I’s French aristocracy, who built multi-purpose palaces in the region.
In Positano, there's a beautiful complex, Palazzo Murat (now a luxury hotel), which once belonged to the famous cavalry marshal and Napoleon’s brother-in-law, later King of Naples, Joachim Murat. Like Positano, Amalfi followed a similar trajectory. Known in antiquity and the medieval period as a prosperous trading hub and the center of a short-lived maritime republic, Amalfi became a favorite destination for film stars and other artists in the 20th century, continuing the "dolce vita" legacy initiated in Rome. The entire area seems to exist to inspire and motivate artists.
You must not miss the Amalfi Cathedral. Dedicated to St. Andrew, construction began in the late 10th century and underwent various architectural modifications over time. Its mix of architectural styles is fascinating, with surprising Norman and Islamic decorative elements—a lesser-known chapter of the region’s history, reflecting periods of Arab and Norman rule.
Moving on to Capri Island, one very illustrative fact is worth mentioning: the Roman Empire’s elite, particularly Augustus and Tiberius, were deeply impressed by the island’s beauty, tranquility, dramatic scenery, and vivid colors. This detail explains the profound impact visiting the island had on us. The Roman aristocracy was renowned for its taste and refinement in art and lifestyle, though critics often highlight the eccentricities pushed beyond natural limits in their pursuit of exclusivity. Capri’s landscapes are breathtaking, with panoramic views of the Sorrentine Peninsula, cliffs plunging into the sea, an intensely green Mediterranean, grottos, natural harbors, yachts, villas, and luxury hotels.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have much time to explore the entire island. Instead, we chose to walk the area between Marina Piccola and the town of Capri, wandering through the surrounding streets and stopping several times for a caffe freddo or an espresso. I’ve visited many cities known for their shopping districts and designer stores, but Capri’s fashion street—where brands like Fendi, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Ferragamo, and Gucci compete for attention—is lined with charming cafés, lush greenery, flowers, mosaic-paved walkways, handmade jewelry shops, and elegant storefronts. It’s all an irresistible temptation, not just for women (and let’s be fair, not only for them 🙂).
Reluctantly tearing ourselves away from shopping, we finally convinced ourselves to climb to one of the island’s higher points to visit the famous Villa Jovis, where Emperor Tiberius chose to isolate himself for many years, surrounded by nature, scholars, the arts, and all manner of eccentricities. 🙂 Unfortunately, little remains of the elegant residence beyond solid foundations and ruins, but with a bit of imagination and a reconstruction image, it’s easy to visualize the luxury and refinement enjoyed by Rome’s ruling classes.
Walking along the paths that once represented Tiberius’ private park, I couldn’t help but picture the aging emperor in my mind—retired in paradise, with an astrologer on his right, a stunning patrician woman on his left, and a disabled dwarf behind him—competently yet ruthlessly governing the Mediterranean-spanning empire with a mere gesture, condemning entire senatorial families to death. At least, that’s the simplistic image I’ve gathered from many books about his era, likely based on Suetonius. Tiberius remains a highly complex figure, and I’ve always been intrigued by the dark and controversial image surrounding him—but that’s a story for another time. 🙂
Returning to Capri’s attractions, don’t miss the Blue Grotto, the Gardens of Augustus, or a boat trip around the island to admire the spectacular natural arches, including the famous Faraglioni rocks.
Following this Roman theme, our vacation in the Sorrentine Peninsula also brought us to Pompeii and Herculaneum, famous for their ruins excavated from the volcanic ash that buried them during Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 AD. There, I bought a fascinating book featuring photos of ancient Pompeii buildings as they appear today, along with transparent overlays reconstructing their original appearance during Roman times. This practical tool is a great aid to the imagination! I later found similar books for Rome and other locations.
Walking through Pompeii, freed from the lava that once buried it, feels like stepping onto the set of HBO’s Rome. The houses are missing only their roofs, the streets are almost perfectly paved, and the amphitheaters and forums are remarkably well-preserved. Even the paintings and decorations in the wealthy citizens’ villas remain surprisingly intact, often retaining much of their original color. The entire site is awe-inspiring, transporting visitors 2,000 years back in time.
Add to this the haunting casts of people and animals caught in the eruption, frozen in contorted poses, and the effect is chilling. To top it all off, there’s an area featuring well-preserved explicit paintings and artifacts related to sexuality and intimate rituals, offering invaluable insight into Roman life in Pompeii, abruptly halted by the catastrophic eruption of 79 AD.
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