Exploring the Dolomites: A Winter Wonderland in Val Gardena
- Trip And Zip
- Dec 30, 2004
- 4 min read
I fondly remember my first skiing experience in Italy… The mountain resorts in Italy have a different charm compared to Austrian ones, with a distinct Latin influence that guarantees a unique experience. One of our choices for a winter vacation, our first in Italy, was in the Dolomites Mountains.
The Val Gardena area, or Groden as it’s known to German speakers, is one of the five alpine valleys where the Ladin language, a nearly extinct Romance language, is still spoken in very limited areas today. This cultural aspect, combined with the ski area’s location near the Austrian border, has led to the development of mountain resorts that beautifully blend German-style services and infrastructure with a distinctly Italian “la vita è bella” vibe. The local community is unique, proud of its ancient origins, and highly attentive to preserving its cultural aspects and the specific mix of the region. Their efforts in this regard are clearly visible. Although Italian is predominantly spoken in the area, German is also frequently used, and we occasionally heard accents—unintelligible to us—that are specific to the Ladin language. For those who wish to take a break from skiing and are interested in exploring local uniqueness in detail, there are museums, specific publications, and numerous local cultural events.
For tourists, Val Gardena/Groden (81 lifts and over 175 slopes) is essentially composed of three major resorts: Ortisei/St. Ulrich, St. Cristina/St. Christina, and Selva Gardena/Wolkenstein. We skied throughout the area and chose something different almost every day, although two slopes seemed truly extraordinary to me: the two black slopes descending from Mt. Ciampinoi (2,254 m) to Selva/Wolkenstein and St. Cristina, respectively. The latter includes an absolutely excellent section called Saslong, which was used in the past for the Alpine Ski World Cup.
The ski area in Val Gardena/Groden is very well connected to the surrounding ones. Heading up to Mt. Dantercepies (2,300 m), you practically enter the circuit that encircles the Sella Ronda massif. From there, you can ski to areas like Val di Fassa, Arabba/Marmolada, or Alta Badia, and to resorts like Canazei, Arabba, and Corvara.
For beginners or those interested in freestyle tricks with snowboards or skis, the Alta Badia area is a true paradise. It offers numerous easy slopes, perfect for learning or improving your skills, as well as areas with bumps, jumps, and other infrastructure designed for those who enjoy putting on a show. We skied here for an entire day, and I firmly believe it’s one of the best areas to learn skiing or snowboarding. However, beginners are better off staying in resorts like La Villa or Corvara, as getting there from Selva/Wolkenstein requires some distance on skis, which can be tiring or challenging for a novice.
The Dolomites Mountains, though not as tall as Switzerland’s mountain ranges, offer spectacular scenery due to their rugged appearance, with sharp peaks and irregular rocky outcrops rising around the ski slopes. This only enhances the pleasure of taking breaks or sunbathing at altitude, and there are plenty of mountain terraces offering these amenities.
The “high-altitude” restaurants are well-represented. I’ll mention Gamsblut and Danielhütte in the St. Cristina area or Baita Saslonch near Mt. Ciampinoi in Selva. Although strongly influenced by Italian cuisine, the gastronomy of Val Gardena’s restaurants caters to almost every taste and can impress even the most demanding and refined gourmets. Most of the time, there’s an abundant offering of traditional local products, and the vibrant, typically Latin atmosphere, combined with generally good service, greatly enhances the excellent experience you can have dining at most establishments.
Focusing on the resort where we spent our vacation, it’s worth mentioning that Selva Gardena/ Wolkenstein (1,563 m) is located at the end of a picturesque valley. However, the road doesn’t stop there; it continues up through mountain passes (Passo Gardena, Passo Sella) that connect to other resorts, ensuring easy access to them despite the winding roads. The resort is spread along the main access road, which might cause some congestion and slightly diminish its charm. However, if you choose a hotel away from this route, you can fully enjoy peace and quiet or a vacation atmosphere, depending on your preference.
Like the entire area, Selva Gardena is full of culinary temptations, and the après-ski offerings are very generous. Regarding restaurants, I can’t provide specific recommendations, as we enjoyed excellent half-board service at the hotel where we stayed. However, for après-ski or post-dinner entertainment, there are plenty of places to “lose yourself,” like small wine bars, crowded pubs, and nightclubs. We spent pleasant afternoons and evenings at Luislkeller, as well as in a few other pubs/clubs on the main street, though I can’t recall their names… Once again, I must mention the strong Latin atmosphere, influenced by the Italian character. The same ambiance is felt in the shops, where the selection of clothing and sportswear likely satisfies the preferences of many women… There are also numerous fashion-focused stores offering creations by major designers… well, it’s Italy! 🙂 …
An important note: being an Italian resort, New Year’s Eve is entirely different compared to many Austrian/Swiss resorts. I’m referring specifically to the evening meal, which starts much later and lasts much longer after midnight… 🙂 At the hotel where we stayed, the festive dinner began around 10 PM and practically lasted until dawn. The culinary refinement and the number of courses were impressive. As for the entertainment afterward, though I’m repeating myself, … it’s typically Latin… I simply have no more descriptive term! 🙂 … Well, it’s Italy! 🙂
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